Tilly and the Buttons Nora top

I’m very excited to have been offered a copy of one of the new Tilly and the Buttons and I jumped at the chance to try Nora, a drop shoulder jersey top with several variations of sleeve, neckline and length. It’s just the sort of top I like to wear, often layered up in colder weather so I thought you might like to know what I think about the pattern.

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keeping the design under wraps before the launch.

For once I decided I would trace off the pattern first because I’ll probably want to use several of the variations but this time I wanted to start with the long sleeve, uneven hem version.

Initially I checked my measurements against the sizing chart, and then the very useful finished garment measurements chart too. It’s always helpful if patterns have this (‘big 4’ patterns usually have them printed directly on one of the major pattern pieces) because you can make a much better judgement of the size you want. Take a tape measure and hold it around your body using the finished garment measurements to see how you feel about the fit-too loose? too tight? I opted to go down a size from the one indicated by my body measurements because I felt the finished top would be plenty big enough.

I had some lovely loopback sweatshirting in my stash that I’d bought from GuthrieGhani at last year’s one and only Great British Sewing Bee Live in London. It had been destined for a top based on one I’d seen at the Burberry ‘Capes’ show at the beginning of 2017 but never quite got made. When I clapped eyes on the Nora I knew the Burberry top would rise again.

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I love the varied layers and stripes of this look.

In order to match the stripes, take your time laying up the fabric ready to cut. Ensure the stripes on the underneath layer are in line with the top layer by popping a few pins through both layers every so often. Next, I placed the front and back pieces onto matching stripes at the lower edges, double checking that the bottom of the armhole was also the same. I didn’t cut the sleeves out at this time, I waited until I had the front and back sewn together at the shoulders and the neck band attached before doing this. This way you can have your actual garment laying on the fabric next to where you’re intending to place the sleeve pattern, I cut each sleeve separately to make absolutely sure.

Tilly’s instructions and photos are generally very clear and helpful in my experience. I’m not sure if I did the neck band in quite the same way as the instructions but it worked and looks good. Different knits and jerseys have differing amounts of stretch so you may need to adjust the length of the band you use. I made mine shorter in the end as it wasn’t sitting flat at first, the band needed to be more stretched onto the neck edge to sit nice and flat.

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I’ll take that!

The beauty of the sleeve on the Nora is that it’s a ‘shirt sleeve head’ so it’s almost flat across the top. This means it’s very simple to sew on because there’s no tricky setting into an armhole to do, you sew it on flat and then join the underarm and side seams afterwards. Incidentally, I sewed most seams using the tricot stretch stitch (looks like lightening in the symbols if you’re looking for it on your machine) You could also use a zigzag that’s very flattened out by reducing the stitch width. Alternatively, you could sew most of Nora together using an overlocker but don’t forget the seam allowances are 1.5cms and an overlocker will be much narrower which could result in a bigger garment than planned if you don’t trim them down first.

Before I hemmed the sleeves I tried the top on and opted to bring the sleeve width at the cuffs in by a total of 6cms [only as far as the elbow though from where I graded back into the original seam] Although the cuffs were a bit too wide for my liking I loved the extended length which comes some way over your hands.

That just leaves the stepped hem. I used a twin needle to sew straight across the hems and a regular ballpoint needle to turn the side seams.

Before I started Nora I’d already decided that I’d wear a shirt under the stripy version because the front is actually a bit higher than I like so, when I make my next one, I’ll lengthen the front somewhat but still keep a ’step’. I’ve been wearing it with my favourite The Maker’s Atelier Holiday Shirt underneath and I love how it looks together. I bought some beautiful Liberty fleece-back sweatshirt fabric from Fabrics Galore at the recent Knitting & Stitching show which I’ll use to make the Nora with the high roll collar instead and the long cuffs will roll back to show the contrast colour, it’s going to be so cosy. I reckon you could make it in a drapey woven fabric too BUT  you’d have to make the neckline larger because you wouldn’t get your head through otherwise!!

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No make up selfie in Threadquarters! I really like all the hem interest going on.

Thank you Tilly for the chance to try out Nora, I’m definitely a fan and I think there will certainly be a few versions of her finding their way into my wardrobe over the autumn and winter…and then there will be short-sleeve versions when the spring arrives!

Until next time,

Happy sewing

Sue

 

yet another variation….neckline 3!

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This one happened because I found a gorgeous double-knit jersey in The Creative Sanctuary in Hertford on a visit to collect a Collette Moneta pattern to take part in the MonetaParty on Instagram at the end of February….one thing leading to another.

Ok, sparkly stars and pink stripes aren’t very mature but I liked it and I wanted a long-sleeved cosy top for our upcoming trip to the Lake District and because this was reversible I knew the roll-back cuffs I’d used before would look good.

I changed the basic neckline on this one by raising it by about 5cms and then making a rectangular collar to fit it, I didn’t want it standing as far away from the neck as the two funnel-neck ones [in truth, I could have raised it a bit more as it still isn’t that close to the neck] By cutting two rectangles and stitching them right side to wrong side I could make the stripes visible. I’d got another heavy metal zip so I thought I’d put that into the collar seam to give it another detail.  Continue reading

Using a fleece blanket to make a top

You might have seen my recent funnel-neck top… img_0455

I was jolly pleased with how it turned out and decided I’d make another when I found the right fabric. I didn’t expect IKEA to be the place I found it! They sell (amongst many many other things) inexpensive fleece blankets and the day we went some colours were selling for a ridiculous £2!! I bought a light blue and a charcoal grey (that might have been dearer, I’m not sure)img_0699

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I gave them a wash and tumble dry and I was all set.

There is a slight widthwise stretch but the fleece is otherwise stable.

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I folded the edges in so that front and back are both on folds, the back would have had a seam originally but I didn’t want that.

The sleeves and neck pieces came out of what was left.

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I wanted long sleeves this time so I just extended them on the fabric and marked it with an air-erasable pen.

The other change I decided to make was to add an exposed zip to the collar as a new detail. I had a metal jeans zip in the drawer so I used that.

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To work out where the end of the zip needed to go I matched the seam allowances for the collar next to the shoulder (where the gauge is). The two red pins indicate where the snips will go at the base of the zip.
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I reinforced the area where the zip was going with iron-on interfacing, then snipped it where the two red pins had indicated for the end of the zip.

I then used the same method of insertion as for the Tilly and the Buttons Orla blouse.

Another joy of this fabric is that it doesn’t fray so there’s no need to overlock or finish the edges-superspeedy!

It all went together very quickly, even allowing for the collar-change. I haven’t added a pocket to this one although I might and the sleeves simply roll up. I’m wearing it as I write this with a turtle neck top underneath and it’s very cosy. img_0743img_0736img_0754img_0757

You can always tell when my daughter has taken the pictures because they come over all arty aka wonky! Excuse the roughness of my appearance, I’ve had a cold…

I haven’t started a grey one yet, I’ll probably think about a change of neckline for that one.

Obviously I bought an inexpensive fleece blanket but you could just as easily use any blanket you already have, or better still, buy one from a charity shop. (I do feel slightly guilty for buying this blanket rather than up cycling but I didn’t have anything suitable at the time) The size of the average fleece blanket is just about right for a sweatshirt, I haven’t made a Named Talvikki or a Grainline Studios Linden but it might be possible to try them for example, you may need ribbing for the cuffs and neckline though.

Why not give it a try…

Happy Sewing

Sue