Vogue 9251 wrap-over dress

 

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Wedding outfits are always a dilemma and sewing your own is no exception to this! When my elder daughter’s best friend made the happy announcement she was getting married in the summer I started planning (in my head) straight away!

As I mentioned in my previous Simple Sew blog, by about May it was going to be the Lizzie pattern in a particular fabric but then the supplier was no longer going to provide us with said fabric so it was back to the drawing board.

I made a trip to Goldhawk Road in London in early June and Classic Textiles came up trumps with a silky crepe de chine in several lovely botanical prints which necessitated a game of eeny, meeny, miny, mo to choose between them (very scientific!) I settled on a silvery grey background with a variety of flowers on and I bought some very soft slipper satin lining to go under it.IMG_7148

I didn’t want to use the Lizzie after all because it would break up the design into too many pieces so I opted, after quite a bit of research using The Foldline’s pattern database, on Vogue 9251. I chose it over the Eve from Sew Over It because I liked the front and back darts on the bodice instead of gathering and I preferred the flutter sleeves too-I couldn’t quite work out on the SOI one whether the sleeves dipped oddly at the back or not. Anyway, I didn’t want to do it just because everyone else was and Vogue have always been extremely good patterns. By using a very simple wrap over style it would show off the print nicely, not all ‘chopped up’. It has a full-length version too with simple short sleeves.

I chose to make a test version in stash fabric first just to be sure about fit and whether the style suited me. It’s a Vogue “Easy” pattern and it’s very straight forward-cutting out the toile wasn’t too tricky but I did have to spend a long time cutting the crepe de Chine later because it’s soooo slippery and having a one way design meant I wanted to get the flowers matching horizontally on each piece as much as possible. I wouldn’t advise a total novice using this fabric, I had a lot of fun and games with it and I’ve sewn forever!

I chose the size according to my measurements increasing slightly at the waist and I’m really happy with the fit. Obviously a wrap-over is pretty forgiving size-wise but you don’t want it much too big because it will be all gapey at the front which is never flattering. IMG_7169IMG_7162IMG_7161IMG_7159

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Help was at hand as you see!

There’s a lot of hemming to do around the skirt and flutter sleeves so I used my new rolled hem foot for my Pfaff but I really struggled with it. I just couldn’t seem to get the knack of it. I persevered and it’s just about acceptable if you don’t look too closely, I don’t know if it was too much of a curve or not enough but I must practice more! I just wasn’t happy with it on the crepe de Chine so in the end I reverted to making a pin-hem which was long winded and still not as good as I’d like but there’s an element of me being uber-critical as time was running out. [I did a test of the rolled hem finish on my overlocker too but decided it wasn’t smart enough on this particular fabric] As I’ve mentioned, cutting out the slippery fabric probably meant it had shifted a bit on the table in the process-it’s always going to be difficult if you have to use your dining table and not one specifically for the purpose.

You might find the side seams droop down a little so if this bothers you, and you’re not up against the clock like I was, then leave the dress to hang for a day or two and then level the bottom off before hemming it. You could do this on your dress stand (dummy) if you have one, or measure consistently from the waist down using a tape measure.

The pattern calls for the neck edge to be finished with bias-binding, which is what I did on the first version although I made my own from the fabric rather than buy ready made. The crepe de chine is very thin and quite sheer so I’d bought slipper satin to line it with. I cut the bodice exactly the same and bagged it out, then under-stitched the edge-take great care not to stretch this edge because it will go baggy, stay stitch the edge first or use iron-on tape if the fabric is sturdy enough. The skirt was the same except much shorter, about knee length as you can see in the photo. IMG_7659

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This is the finished dress turned inside out so that you can see how I lined it.

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For extra security I used a clear press stud at the wrap-over point and made lingerie straps on the shoulders too, using narrow ribbon and press studs.
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So that the lining didn’t flap about and show I slip-stitched the edge of it to the top layer some of the way down.

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All ready for the off! I got the hat less than a week before the wedding (half price in John Lewis) the shoes and bag I already had.

After all the boiling hot weather we’ve had in the UK over the last few weeks it changed and was a bit cooler and really blustery on the day of the wedding. I was a bit concerned that I’d lose my hat and my skirt would blow up around my neck but that didn’t happen thankfully! A hat pin helps!

I really like this pattern, it’s really comfortable to wear and the wrap-over covers well although a press stud always helps. I think I’ll make more of this style as it’s a fairly quick make and is quite beginner friendly if you don’t use a super-slippy fabric like I did, just something with a bit of drape. The sleeve shape is very pretty, and did I mention it has pockets?

Don’t overlook the ‘big four’ pattern companies when you’re choosing a pattern because Vogue in particular have always offered fashion-forward styles, often by top designers, and you don’t necessarily need to be a very experienced sewer to get a good result. [Even better if they’re on a half-price offer!]

Happy Sewing,

Sue

19 thoughts on “Vogue 9251 wrap-over dress

  1. I absolutely love this dress. What a great job you have done! Thanks for sharing all the little tips about how to make it work perfectly. I love it!

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  2. It looks perfect on you Sue, the design really lends itself to your fabric. It’s a nightmare isn’t it roll hemming curves? I don’t envy you having that to do with time constraints, it looks like you did a fab job finish-wise. I’m a bit of a fan of Vogue patterns, especially the Marcy Tilton designs which I find really easy to wear and always learn something when I try a new one. I really like your toile too!

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  3. You look beautiful Sue. And can I just say that this quote: “Anyway, I didn’t want to do it just because everyone else was” …is another reason why I don’t do Indie patterns….I see literally everyone in the same style all over IG and the blogosphere and I like to be unique.
    Your Vogue dress is a stunner Sue, x

    Liked by 1 person

  4. I also want to make this dress with a lining- did you have any issues attaching the bindings and ties with the lining?

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      1. Hi! I’m hoping to also line my version of the dress. If you have a minute, could you let me know how you attached the ties with the lining? I’m not sure why I’m so nervous to make this pattern! It seems simple enough but it’s for a pretty special occasion so I want to get it just right and my sewjo’s bailed on me. Thank you 🙂

        On a side note, I really love that crepe de chine!

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      2. Hi Liz, I’ve had a look inside the dress and it looks like I’ve just attached ribbon ties on the inside as per the instructions although I’ve made sure they are securely stitched through both the lining and the top fabric at the side and waist seams, not just the lining. Does that help?
        The fabric was as slippy as a very slippy thing to sew but I was pleased with the result, it seems like an age since I wore it for the wedding but it’s had a few other outings in the interim.

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      3. Hi Susan! That does thank you! Thanks for getting back to me. I’m pretty sure I’ve just started to overthink everything and need to just go for it. It will probably be easier if I just get started 🙂

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  5. Your dress is stunning 💕. That fabric!! Thank you so much for sharing your tips. I am about to embark on a similar type of wrap dress (also Vogue as it happens), but with a straight hem, and I will also to need to line it. I was/am nervous about the lining at the front edge. Do you think that it would work if I did what you did but took it down to the full length of the dress? Did you make your lining shorter because of the shaped nature of the hem of your dress? Many thanks 😊

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    1. Hi Christina, thank you! I made the lining shorter because I didn’t want all that extra fabric around my legs and it also avoided the need to start shaping the lining, but you could easily continue it longer. If there happens to be a facing down the front edge on the pattern you’re using then the lining could come off that.

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